Hail Laserscript Users

[dvdlock]

Hello everyone.

I'm Dave and Im' an Alco.... no, sorry, wrong forum.... I'm a Laserscript user

I purchased my first machine, a 4060 SE from Chris a year or so ago I guess, and around last March I upgraded to the 6090 SE which runs great.

In this last year I have learned a hell of a lot about Laser cutting and engraving and even more regarding the use of Vector graphics and how these are the biggest asset in your library of tools.

I purchased my machine to enable me to offer additional services through my core business which is a Gun Shop. My main focus for the Laser, or so I thought, would be engraving images on to Gun stocks. However, in no time at all I found a whole new world opened up and I now spend a lot of my spare time cutting and engraving all sorts of things.

I'll keep this post short but I will try and contribute by way of sharing my limited experiences with you and offer any help and advice I can. I'll also be keeping my eye open on the forum to hopefully learn from others too.

One thing I would say though to any newcomers to Laserscript machines, your manual is your best friend. As difficult as it may seem with the translations etc I would recommend you read it, read it again and then refer to it regularly. Things in the manual become so much clearer as you gain experience with your machine and you will continue to find new things that you didn't realise you could do and discover shortcuts to some of the thing you already do.

Your other best friend is of coarse Chris. He's always ready to help if you get stuck.

Regards

Dave.

[HPCLaser]

Thanks for the post dave hope the shop has picked up a bit.
which are the best woods to engrave? Ive sampled some beech which engraves white but am looking to find some good examples for the next exhibition.
Thanks Chris

[dvdlock]

Thanks for the post dave hope the shop has picked up a bit.
which are the best woods to engrave? Ive sampled some beech which engraves white but am looking to find some good examples for the next exhibition.
Thanks Chris

Hi Chris,

Tough question. I've found it really depends on the type of engraving. Sepele for example is great for text. It's OK for photo's but once oiled & finished you lose some clarity.
Here's a couple of wood book made from Sepele:




Oak is surprisingly good given the coarseness of the grain. Here's a couple of coasters that I did as samples for someone. Note the difference between with the grain and across it. Same image, power and speed for both:


You are spot on regarding Beech. A lot of gun stocks are made of stained and lacquered Beech. When its lased it looks terrible, but when you finished playing with a bit of different coloured stains and a small paintbrush, the result is worlds apart:


This is a good example of sealing wood before engraving. A sanding sealer does a good job. Seal up the wood first to help prevent the stain 'wicking' into adjacent areas.

On the same Beech stock a vector image is engraved and a dark stain flooded into the engraving followed by a wipe over with a cloth while it's still wet:


I have found that one of the best wood to engrave is Birch faced plywood. Its one of the cheapest ply's and has a really nice contrast as it burns nicely. I don't have an image handy but if you get a piece about 600 x 400 you can engrave a dozen or so decent sized raster and vector images randomly across the sheet.

Something that is quite novel to have on display I think are those puzzle dinosaurs that once cut just slot together. Before you cut them out you could vector engrave your company name and stuff.

Another novel give away for your show and quick to produce are these 3mm laserply cubes (50x50x50) with your company details on with cut shapes, engraved images, engraved text and vector engraved text on them.
As I know you'll be busy and have no time I've made a file for the box for you in .ai to directly upload to LaserCut. It should upload 4-layers. The Speed/Power settings at on the file which you can delete prior to sending to the laser. When you assemble the box, just apply a little CA (from your friend at StarLoc Adhesives) to the castlations/tabs and, hey presto, one very quickly finished giveaway. Better than a Business Card!!

A quick tip for anyone using laserply. As you know after cutting you are inevitably left with a slight discolouration around the cut line. Don't spend time and effort trying to remove it. Simply keep a tin/bottle of solvent based wood dye like golden oak colour. Apply a little to a cloth and rub all over the ply. It dries very quickly, masks the discolouration and looks nice.

When is your next show Chris. I'm always available Sundays and Mondays if you need a hand.

Regards

Dave.

Edit: Couldn't attache the .ai or .cdr file as not allowed. I will email it to you.

[HPCLaser]

Dave,
As ever excellent sample photos YOUR GOOD!!!
Thanks for the help on the woods Ill have a go with the dye Ive found that carrier tape for vinyl or masking tape is good applied before engraving the resin stains this remove it and hey presto no stain but yours sounds faster with the dye.
will let you know on the show weds-sat
Thanks again Chris

[dvdlock]

Hi Chris.

I agree about the tape. On some jobs I have been using the low tack paper type of tape. It works great. The only thing I found to be a chore is picking all the tiny pieces off that left behind if the graphic included letters.

Regards

Dave.

[HPCLaser]

Hi Dave,
have you found out that download current file works without download config aparrently you only need to use it when you change machine settings it saves loads of hassle...
and beeping.Thanks for your help and keep an eye out for paul he is building a perspex geared clock This will look really good I have asked for some pics for the site.
Have a look closely at a product called sensitile by scintilla on the web very easy to make and awfully expensive .....good oppertunity for us laser guys $233 per square foot not in the u.k yet ideal for posh kitchen/bar fitters atb Chris

[dvdlock]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I have only ever used the Download Current File, I'm sure it was one of the first things I asked you about when I got my first machine from you. See, you knew that all along

The only time I used the download config is when I change the parameters for the pulse thing for the rotary, and back again of coarse when finished.

Something I can tell you that I found the hard way. I was cutting some small acrylic pieces with names on. I would change the name on the graphic in Lasercut using the text tool, download again only to find the name hadn't changed. I had loads of bits with the same name on and just couldn't fathom it. Turns out that you should make more use of the Calculate button

For all you other guys using lasercut, whenever you make a change to a file on-screen in Lasercut, before you re-download the file to the laser just hit the 'Calculate' button. This is also important id you make a change to any speed/power settings, otherwise the settings you 'think' you are using may be your previous settings.
I now make it a habit to hit Calculate prior to any file download.

Anyway, back on topic. The Sensitile looks interesting. I'll keep any eye open for that or at least any contractors that start using it here.

The perspex clock idea sounds good. I Have some plans for a wooden clock that I received with a bandsaw in the early 80's. I was going to see if I could scan and vectorise them and have a go at one. It's one of those 'I'll get round to it one day' Jobs. Look forward to seeing any pictures at some point.

Do you know anything about Lasertiles?? Quite expensive from what I understand but they look like a great product. Take a look here http://lasertile.com/index.html Don't know if there is a UK distributor for them.

Talking of Rotary's Chris, did you manage to find any more info from those guys who use the rotary regularly for the pulse settings they use. I'd like to put mine to more use but could do with a better way than trial and error to confirm the settings. I got through loads of wine just to get hold of the bottles to use

Regards

Dave.

[lostatsea]

Hey another wood fanatic.

We purchased a 6090 from Chris in february 09 and are very pleased with the results we can achieve.

We quickly discovered that american walnut was a brilliant wood to engrave, it has a very tight but even grain.

We are doing alot of inlay work with this wood as our base material.

swallow_brooch_front_medium.jpg

(13.98 KiB) Downloaded 2798 times

skull_rose_front_medium.jpg

(9.89 KiB) Downloaded 2798 times

check out more at http://www.lostatseashop.com (shameless plug!)

Also using medium tack application tape used for vinyl cut applications as a masking material on top of the engraving works well however using acetone removes any smoke or sap/resin damage and restores the wood to it's former glory.

Anyway just thought i'd share my results. Now all i need to do is put my macine back together after moving studio! ahhhh!

[lasercarver]

Your wood books are truly excellent. An aspirational standard for me.