Probably some typical newby questions.....

[LinkspanModels]

OK chaps - I did warn you

Just been playing for an hour or so with our new 3060 with a 60W tube and am having great difficulty getting the settings right.

I want to cut the following: 0.5m, 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm HIPS and just cannot find the 'sweet spot' for the power / speed ratio.

First question for now - to cut through the plastic, without creating a massive melt, do I increase the power and slow the speed or increase the power AND the speed?

For the 0.5mm I think we have found a speed of 50 with a power of 20 to be optimum. Any thoughts?

For the 1.5mm, we tried S20/P28, S20/P25 & S20/P23 but none cut through and all created a very wide kerf and what appeared to be excess melt. Too slow and not enough power?

Will attempt the 1mm and 2mm tomorrow, but look forward to the views of the more experienced in the meantime...

Many thanks for your time,
Carl

[PhillyDee]

Never used it, due to the meltyness. What about air assist? Can you try more or less?

[Tom]

25/40 springs to mind,BUT i'll have a look at my book in the morning
I make washers out of 1.5mm for a company about 3 times a year
If you get the sp/pw wrong the kerf looks like your out of focus

Tom

[LinkspanModels]

Tom - Thank you for your help. I will try the 25/40 in the morning. And yes, you are right - at the moment (on the 1.5mm) it does look as if the laser was out of focus, but I know it wasn't Oh for the want of a Bible of settings!!!!! You are a Gentleman to offer to share your findings!!

Phillydee - What is this about 'air assist'? I have the standard HPC set up...... Doesn't that blow air across the laser 'head'?

Cheers
Carl

[Tom]

Thats of the top of my head so might be wrong
As for the Bible of settings everyone's will be slightly different

Tom

[LinkspanModels]

BTW - I realise that lasered HIPS is never going to give a clean, crisp edge. For our purposes, it isn't really an issue.

In the r/c model boat world, modellers are used to, and expect to, have to clean up cut edges before assembling the parts. In the past, kits have either come with HIPS printed with the parts on it for the modeller to cut out themselves or the HIPS is die-stamped and the modeller finishes the cut himself. In both cases, the edges have to be fettled afterwards.

Recently, some kit manufacturers have moved to CNC cut HIPS sheets for their parts, but these are only part cut through and again the modeller has to finish off the job.

Our venture is quite unique in using laser to cut the parts - providing very accurate parts with a corresponding good fit, only leaving the modeller with a bit of light fettling to tidy up.

[LinkspanModels]

Thats of the top of my head so might be wrong
As for the Bible of settings everyone's will be slightly different

Tom

Thanks Tom - I realise that every set up would be slightly different, but at least it will put this poor chap somewhere in the middle of the ball-park and give him a fighting chance of getting it right..............without obliterating a whole workshop full of material in the process!!!!!

[Spooky]

Extend the aircone closer to the job and get about 30 psi of wind Carl, will mean getting a modded aircone made up but worth it

the key to cutting HIPS is to be able to blast away all the melt before it creeps back.

[LinkspanModels]

Extend the aircone closer to the job and get about 30 psi of wind Carl, will mean getting a modded aircone made up but worth it

the key to cutting HIPS is to be able to blast away all the melt before it creeps back.

YIKES!!! Now you've got me!!!

Aircone? I assume that is the black plastic bit that contains the lens? Where on earth would I get a different length one? And as for 30psi.....I guess that will be down to the compressor? The current set up from HPC contains an HAILEA ACO-328 - Chinese by the look of the instruction book.... No idea what it's output is... Would ANY compressor fit OK?

[Spooky]

7psi from the Hialea, yup needs a full blown compressor but be aware the air lines may need a bit of work, the cone is the bit under the final lens correct

To be honest not really something to be doing to a new machine until you get used to it though