New LS3060 some help needed

[Spooky]

Hiya Rob,

Like the brickwork you showed me when you came over?

If so then draw as a line and set to CUT ....BUT keep the speed high and the power low.

I'd be looking about speed 150 power 25 to get the brickwork you had on that model you had with you.

If you need it thicker then rather than draw it in Tcad, do the first vector drawing BUT import a JPG into Tcad or autocad and overlay it.

That way the laser will cut the TurboCAD DXF but will engrave the JPG overlayed onto it.

I do it the CUT method on the doll house model you saw here.
If you and Martin want to drop over for a day then I'm happy to go through any questions or problems you may have? also can try out many of the features your looking for?

best wishes

Dave

[robburge@sky.com]

Hi Dave

I actually tried that - and it worked quite well. I drew some brickwork and set it at 200 speed/35 power and got a very nice result. I can see me using cut solely for a while as I do not understand engrave at all! I tried drawing a few simple squares in lasercut - but it engraved the whole area out instead of just the outlines as I thought it would? Lots to learn.

Thanks for your offer of another visit - would really like that, and I will, but it will be a while before I can get up to you again, as I have no leave left until next year. In the meantime I'm going to practice all I can - when I visited HPC I bought some nice looking 0.8mm engravable plastic which I hope to use for fine detail stuff like windows etc. I just need to source some really thin clear acrylic (0.5mm ish)

All the best

Rob

[Spooky]

Hiya Rob,

I'll run up some simple drawings in AutoCAD tomorrow that will demonstrate engrave features and mail them over to you

Hummm best way to look at it is If something can be *filled* with microsoft paint,then it can be engraved, whatever is filled with the paint tool will be engraved.

Your always welcome to drop in my friend, you and Martin both I know what you mean about time off, heh it's just as bad for me and I'm the boss!!

best wishes

Dave

PS:

Suppliers of 0.8mm Poly-Methyl Methacrylate sheet

http://weatherall-uk.com/acrylic/ptsheet.html

[robburge@sky.com]

Thanks Dave

I understand that a lot more now. Also I've emailed that company for a price list and am awaiting a response.

I did my first wall tonight - 38mm X 500mm, English bond brickwork with arch for a culvert. It came out well and I am very pleased with the result.

Guess what I have yet more questions:

When I picked up my laser Chris made a focus guide that is to be held flush with the top of the flat plate which is bolted over the arm. The guide is about 58.7mm high and when used thus the following lens heights occur - I just want to double check these are OK as they don't correspond to what I've read so far:

Height at top of cone where cone meets parallel portion is about 32mm

Clearance between top of work piece surface and lowest point of cone is 21.76mm

Do these seem OK do you think?

Also how do clean the lens - i.e. what do you dismantle to do it?

Many thanks

Rob

[Spooky]

Heya Rob,

Can't help too much on that one my friend as I don't have the same model to take measurements from The focal length of the lens on the machine is the important part and they are all the same across the range (other than on laserscript pro machines) (until the new 100mm lens are released) from the centre of the lens to the workpiece should be 41mm. BUT note that this is from the lens and not from the holder so not knowing the dimensions of the holder I can't really say.
Whatever you do DON'T place anything against the actual Meniscus lens, they have a coating that is easy to damage or scratch and if damaged they become a £75 piece of scrap glass
Stripping down again I can't comment, I'm not sure if yours strips the same way as mine.

Cleaning wise there are a number of quality laser lens cleaning solutions that can be used on a babies cotton bud,http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_pa ... ucts_id=37 Isoprop is usually fine (and cheap) but again make sure you use virgin cotton buds, any contamination that can scratch that lens and you have problems

sorry I can't be of more help my friend

best wishes

Dave

[Mike]

I Rob

I don’t think the focus height of the machine is that critical +-1.5mm but if you want to check yourself run a few cuts then move the bed up and down and do more sample cuts to see what effect it has on the quality.
For instance if you wanted a thicker line you might deliberately put the laser out of focus and increase the power/slow the speed to adjust. I do this occasionally as its quicker than engraving a .75mm thick line.

The manual says shows that the height should be 62mm, but I think the accuracy of the lens will affect it, maybe Chris optimised it for you?

To remove the lens for cleaning you first have to remove the bottom of the cone, this is the part the air pipe is attached to, to do so you just have to loosen the brass thumb screw and that parts just comes off easily ( no forcing)
Then to get to the lens you have to unscrew the knurled retaining cap.

Thanks for the info on the lens dave. .. need to go inspect mine.

[robburge@sky.com]

Hi Everyone

Just a quick post to show some progress. I've been practising drawing/speeds/power and all that mallarky and have finally produced sufficient parts for a railway model kit that I hope to sell one one day - great fun so far.

This is a model of a LSWR signal box and made from 2mm MDF, 1.5 ply, and Rowmark for the windows.

[Daven]

Nice work - get it to N gauge and you will be laughing

Dave

[robburge@sky.com]

Does anyone know if acetate sheet is laserable, or does it contain nasty stuff? I have some 0.25mm sheets that I would like to use for glazing windows. If is is OK to use does anyone have a guide speed/power for a 40W tube?

Many thanks

Rob

[Spooky]

Heya Rob,

That's some fine work you have going on there my friend

Ok, acetate, the base line test is the green flame test.

Shave a tiny sliver and burn in a lighter flame...any green flames and it contains chlorine and is a huge NONO (it will destroy your machine and kill you in the process)

From memory acetate comes in a few forms and you would likely need the heat resistant type used for OHP sheets (laser printable) std acetate will just melt into a gloopy mess.

Ask your supplier for the material MSDS (they must supply one by law) this will give you some idea if the sheet can be laser cut.

speed wise...i'd be looking at 100 speed 20 power as a start point and work it from there

best wishes

Dave