3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Moderators: HPC, Daven

Post Reply
tietheknot
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:42 pm
Location: Sheffield
Contact:

3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by tietheknot »

Hey Guys,
I'm trying to cut out some xmas decorations out of some laser ply, as the stuff is pretty small 5cms - ish
I seem to be getting some residue, i've tried some mr sheen as that worked on the stuff i've used in the past. But to no avail, i don't like the brown effect on the wood and worried customers wont either!
Im cutting at s-15 p-60 and i get a clean pass 1st time too - tried it faster to see if the burn decreases but then it needs two passes.
The laser ply is from hindleys, i would like some nicer looking wood to be honest but after having a look round i'm still not sure where to find some.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Nat :)
Pedro_Hernandez
Posts: 184
Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:54 pm
Location: Hertfordshire
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by Pedro_Hernandez »

HI Nat

see post below for some more info.

http://www.laserscript.co.uk/phpBB3/vie ... ?f=8&t=473

I cut a lot of decorations out of 3mm LP and the best result can be found using sign writers application tape. However I stopped using it and instead just sand the residue off after cutting.

What I've tried recently to good effect after sanding my ply I seal it with Chestnut Acrylic clear sanding sealer, after laser cutting a light wipe with Meths is enough to take the residue straight off. Other paints and finishes (not including stains/wax) are quite happy going over the sealer with good coverage.

Also If your not staying within the area of you honey comb bed you will get pools of residue form that will soak into the ply and be difficult to remove even with sanding. Keep a pack of Tesco Value baby wipes to hand and clean the bed often.

Regards

Peter
HPC1290 User HPC 3020 Owner
tietheknot
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:42 pm
Location: Sheffield
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by tietheknot »

Ooh thanks for that!
I was after some good sealer as well, the stuff i have stinks to high heaven and looks naff when it's dry :)
Thanks so much for the response
Daven
Posts: 1635
Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:44 pm
Location: Devon
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by Daven »

Hi Nat,

I use application tape - covered in this post. Funny how some people like the look and others don't. Ha - Peter beat me to it :-)

As for other wood try SLEC. You won't get much bigger bits of wood that thin without paying a lot for it as it has to be quarter sawn.

Another way would be to veneer the ply first and then cut, that way you can have what ever wood finish you want (within reason) quite a bit cheaper.

Cheers

Dave
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user
Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC
Pedro_Hernandez
Posts: 184
Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:54 pm
Location: Hertfordshire
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by Pedro_Hernandez »

Daven wrote:Hi Nat,

I use application tape - covered in this post. Funny how some people like the look and others don't.

As for other wood try SLEC. You won't get much bigger bits of wood that thin without paying a lot for it as it has to be quarter sawn.

Another way would be to veneer the ply first and then cut, that way you can have what ever wood finish you want (within reason) quite a bit cheaper.

Cheers

Dave
I actualy leave the residue edges on some of my own decorations for effect, however one of my cutomers uses normal pastel emulsion finishes and the residue marks do blead through if left.

Peter
HPC1290 User HPC 3020 Owner
Pedro_Hernandez
Posts: 184
Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:54 pm
Location: Hertfordshire
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by Pedro_Hernandez »

Oh I meant so say I use the stuff in the bottle and apply with a rad roller and fine foam roller brush.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/chestnut-che ... prod19767/

They do a cellulose version but I stick with the Acrylic as it has low odour and not a fire risk, it drys lightning fast with no streaks.

If I'm leaving the birch a natural wood finsish I use the Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer for a high gloss finish.

I think these product are intended for wood turning applications but they do a great job on all woods.

Regards

Peter
HPC1290 User HPC 3020 Owner
tietheknot
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:42 pm
Location: Sheffield
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by tietheknot »

Just coming back to this -
Do any of you guys use walnut or any other nice wood?
I want to make some signs for weddings etc, and the 3mm ply is a bit..um, naff shall i say.
I have worked with lasers previously and have just looked up the wood we used,
Apparently it is 'varnished tung wood' Is this similar to pine?
I've looked through lots of suppliers and everything is either very expensive or just laser ply which i already have from hindleys!

Thanks :)
Daven
Posts: 1635
Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:44 pm
Location: Devon
Contact:

Re: 3mm Laser Ply - Sticky Residue 6840

Post by Daven »

I do a bit of woodturning (see a few bits I've made) Exotic woods in flat form are quite hard to come by and expensive (see my post above). The reason I bought the laser was to cut veneer - anyhow I have tried quite a few woods and you will find the oilier the wood is the more smoke and less cutting ability due to the carbon build up.

Walnut did not cut well on my set up but this may be due to lack of a better air assist - teak was a bit better. The other problem you will find is the grain of some woods are tighter than others (depending on how fast the tree grows). This leads to inconsistencies in the material - spalted beech is a good example. Parts of the wood will cut well but where the grain is tight it does not cut as well - so finding the right setting can be trial and error and is different for each bit of timber.

Most wood will engrave ok - but again you can get some varying results for the same reasons above - pictures work well but the wood can be fragile on the darker areas so if rubbed too much will come off and leave light patches.

For signs - the easiest way would be to cut the shape on a band saw, route the edges and sand then engrave and finish with a varnish.

Most of my wood comes from a company called Timberline in Tonbridge or Stiles and Bates in Dover - both sell 'blanks' but I tend to buy 'planks' and cut to size for whatever job I have on. Depending on the size of the sign and the wood you will also encounter warping - as soon as you cut a plank down to a thinner size it releases the tension on the grain which causes the wood to warp. There are ways around this such as quarter sawing the blank into strips and then gluing back together!

Sorry to go on a bit but I hope it's useful ;-)

Dave
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user
Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests