I've been playing with cutting and engraving engraving laminate to get used to the machine without any major problems, but could do with some pointers for fine tuning.
I'm getting a much better finish with the protective film left on for the cutting and better engraving with the film removed. So I'm currently cutting the work then having to remove the film which is a PITA as it's nicely welded with the heat around the edge, then putting the piece back in to engrave. What's normal practice here, film on or film off? I've tried playing with various settings to cut without the film on so I don't have to remove it from the machine and fight with the heat sealed edge to peel it off, but I can't get the finish anywhere near as clean.
I take the film off the top and put a couple of sheets of scrap paper under the laminate and use small magnets to raise the laminate off the honeycomb. You do have to keep an eye on it just in case the paper catches fire.
I set the speeds up so I engrave then cut in two passes which seems to help.
You could also try transfer paper - the stuff used for applying vinyl letters on cars. I got some from ebay after it was mentioned here by someone.
908 Ltd sell a nice cleaning agent as well which is good for cleaning the laminate afterwards.
Cheers
Dave
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC
I've cut and engraved with the film off on two-colour laminates. I clean the laminate afterwards with a car paint restorer used VERY sparingly. It is ever so slightly abrasive (but less so than 'T-cut') and you need to just have the slightest bit on a cloth or it goes into the engraved bits and dries to a white powder.
Bob
LS3020 used for hobby - making model railway buildings/signals etc.
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC
Good question Phil - I use the counter on the pot as the ammeter doesn't fill me with much confidence so it was around .80, just under 1 full turn. I did ramp it up a bit for the last cut to around 1.5.
Cheers
Dave
Using two LS3060's and an ex 3020 user Please note I am not employed by HPC, any advice or recomendations I give are based on my own experience and are not necessarily the same as HPC's. First point of contact on any hardware issues should be with HPC
This is pretty much the only stuff I work with, I cut everything with the film on, it saves clean up time.
Engrave with the film off for best results.
Some materials I also cut back to front as it gives a better cut through the top material.
For locating on the bed I use masking tape stuck to the bed, Run a quick low power cut to give the locations of holes and edges to align the part to. Easy to do and easy to clean up too.
Just be careful cutting through the material with masking tape in place as it can catch alight.. but you should never leave the machine un attended anyway.
I always engrave with the film off anyway, no matter what plastic, otherwise the plastic gives uneven results as it vaporises some, and fuses others. Just a quick wipe with some acetone gets rid of the smoky marks.
